I’ve been to Montreal twice. Once for New Year’s Eve. I wasn’t thinking when I booked the trip, just sounded fun. and again in April for a beautiful wedding at L’Auberge Le Saint-Gabriel – a historic-inn and restaurant.
On that same winter trip, I took the train north to Quebec City. I am glad I had that experience because I’ve never felt cold like that — and I hope I never do again.
And yet… I love Montreal.
Jump to Section
- Why Montreal Is Different from the Rest of Canada
- New Year’s Eve: Coldest Day Ever
- Things to Do in Montreal
- Montreal Food Culture
- Final Thoughts
Why Montreal Is Different & First Impressions
Downtown is modern, cosmopolitan. Old Montreal feels like a small French city. Cobblestone streets. And winter is brutal.
The city feels more artistic, rebellious, and European than Toronto or Calgary. There’s a slightly defiant energy to Montreal, which is cool.
Founded in 1642 as Ville-Marie by French settlers, Montreal developed under French rule before being ceded to Britain in 1763 after the Seven Years’ War. Unlike much of Canada, Quebec fiercely protected its French language, civil law system, and Catholic heritage.
Today, Montreal is officially French-speaking. English is widely spoken, but culturally, this is Quebec first, Canada second.
New Year’s Eve Spent Outside
One of my most vivid memories is standing outside at midnight on New Year’s Eve in below-freezing temperatures. Montreal’s New Year’s Eve festival is Freeze Fest, (Le Grand Minuit de Montréal) a large-scale, free event with live music, massive open-air dance floor, and a spectacular fireworks display at midnight.
Bundled in layers, barely able to move, everyone danced stiffly, laughed, and toasted — fully embracing the cold. I looked around, half-quizzical, half-proud, thinking: Who willingly lives like this?
Temperatures plummeted to a low of -26°C, with wind chill values making it feel as cold as -38°C to -41°C.
The festivities typically run from approximately 8:00 p.m. until 2:00 a.m. I was outta there at 12:02.
Things to Do in Montreal
There’s no shortage of things to do in Montreal, the city stops for nothing.
- Scandinave Spa Vieux-Montreal – Hot tub, cold plunge, sauna, steam room, and a calm relaxation space by the water.
- Old Montreal – Historic core with cobblestone streets, boutiques, cafés, and European charm.
- Mount Royal Park – Designed by Frederick Law Olmsted (same as Central Park). Kondiaronk Belvedere offers sweeping city views.
- Jean-Talon Market – One of North America’s largest open-air markets; local cheeses, produce, breads, and Quebec specialties.
- Montreal Museum of Fine Arts – World-class collection from classical to contemporary.
- Saint Joseph’s Oratory – Huge church dome, major pilgrimage site, incredible city views.
- Quartier des Spectacles – Festival district; home of Montreal’s New Year’s Eve freeze-fest.
Cross-Country Skiing at Beaver Lake
I decided it would be fun and outdoorsy to go cross-country skiing near Beaver Lake Pavilion in Mount Royal Park.
It was neither.
It was freezing. Dark. Quiet in a way that felt unsettling. and also we were lost. Thankfully I spotted a tour guide and discreetly merged in with them to lead us back.
Notre-Dame Basilica of Montreal
It’s one of the clearest examples of Montreal’s Catholic and French roots; the Notre-Dame Basilica of Montreal
Built in the 1820s in Gothic Revival style, the interior is beyond dramatic. Deep blue ceilings covered in gold stars. Intricate wood carvings.
You can also attend the AURA light show inside, which transforms the basilica into an immersive visual experience.
Montreal’s Underground City: An Engineering Masterpiece
Perhaps the most impressive thing about Montreal is its Underground City (RÉSO).
It’s over 30 kilometers (19 miles) of interconnected underground pathways linking malls, metro stations, office buildings, hotels, restaurants, and apartment complexes.
In winter, this becomes essential infrastructure. You can move through much of downtown without stepping outside.
I’m so impressed by this every time.
Montreal Food Culture
Montreal’s food scene feels trendy, old-school, and deeply rooted.
Dunn’s Famous
Serving Montreal-style smoked meat since 1927. Different from New York pastrami — cured with its own spice blend, hand-sliced, piled onto rye with yellow mustard. A product of early 20th-century Eastern European Jewish immigration.
Olive et Gourmando
A staple Old Montreal breakfast spot. Long lines. Cozy interior. It was here I tried my first grilled cheese with caramelized onion, and attempted to make that my signature dish. I was never able to perfect it.
Montreal Bagels
I love a city’s Bagel rivalry. Both places are in Mile End. The rivalry is St-Viateur Bagel (since 1957) vs. Fairmount Bagel (since 1919). Try both and compare.
L’Original
Classic French bistro energy. Comfort food, wine, low lighting — Montreal at its most European.
Clandestino Bar
Hidden mezcal speakeasy. Low-lit, intimate, Mexico City energy. Crickets optional.
Final Thoughts: Would I Go Back?
Yes. Would I go back in January? No.
Montreal is dramatic. It’s artistic. It’s stubbornly French. It celebrates in sub-zero temperatures.
It is the only place I’ve ever cried in a forest and then immediately gone underground to warm up in a mall network.
And somehow that combination made for the best trip.