The only thing I really knew about Jaipur before coming was that it’s called the “Pink City.” The entire old city was painted a terracotta pink in 1876 to welcome the Prince of Wales, and the color has stuck ever since.
We came straight from 3 days in Udaipur and had two full days here. Here’s how we spent them, including one amazing meal and one meal I’d warn you about.
Jump To
- Where to Stay in Jaipur
- Day 1: City Palace, Hawa Mahal & The Johri
- Day 2: Amber Fort
- Getting To and From Jaipur
Where to Stay in Jaipur
We stayed in C-Scheme, a central neighborhood of Jaipur, at Anandmai Sustainable Living Spaces. We had no idea it was also a hostel (there are dorms upstairs), but we had a large private room with our own bathroom, and the staff were very nice. At $22 a night, it was nothing fancy, but totally fine for a short stay.
Day 1: City Palace, Hawa Mahal & The Johri
Breakfast at J Brew Kitchen & Rooftop
When we arrived, we had breakfast at J Brew Kitchen & Rooftop, which sits on top of J Startup House, a coworking space and hotel. Good vibes, lots of people hanging out and working downstairs, and inexpensive food.
City Palace & Hawa Mahal
That evening, we explored the City Palace and Hawa Mahal.
The City Palace is still partly home to the royal family, but it also has museums and courtyards you can walk through.
Hawa Mahal, the “Palace of Winds,” is probably Jaipur’s most iconic building, with its honeycomb-like facade. It was designed so royal women could watch street life without being seen.
Dinner at The Johri
For dinner, we went to The Johri, an upscale all-vegetarian restaurant.
Our bill for two was about $75 (no alcohol), which is definitely on the higher end for India, but the food was incredible and worth it for a splurge night.
Day 2: Amber Fort
The next day, we went to Amber Fort (also called Amer Fort or Amber Palace), about 30 to 40 minutes outside the city.
Built in the 16th century, it blends Hindu and Mughal architecture (the Mughals were the Muslim empire that ruled much of India at the time). It’s known for its ornate courtyards and the Sheesh Mahal, or Mirror Palace.
We hired a guide for 400 rupees (about $4 USD). He was funny and very proactive, sometimes too proactive. At one point he was telling other people to move out of the way so we could take photos, which made me uncomfortable. But at busy tourist sites in India, the rules around personal space are very different from what I’m used to. People push, cut lines, and squeeze into any open space, and waiting your turn isn’t really a thing.
Lunch at 1135 AD (Skip It)
Inside Amber Fort, there’s a restaurant called 1135 AD that’s marketed as a royal dining experience and gets glowing reviews online. Our experience didn’t match those reviews at all.
It felt old and musty inside, the service was horrible, and the food was way overpriced. The staff acted so annoyed that we were there that we just ordered drinks so we could leave.
Bar Palladio (Mixed Feelings)
Later, we had an early dinner at Bar Palladio, an Italian restaurant that came highly recommended.
It’s beautiful and very aesthetic, but pricey for Jaipur (around $17 for pasta). The food was fine, but honestly, at that point I just wanted Indian food and wasn’t in the mood for Italian.
Getting To and From Jaipur
From Udaipur: we flew for about $50 instead of taking the 8-hour train. Definitely worth it for the time saved.
On to Delhi: from Jaipur, we took the train to New Delhi. It was about 4 hours and $18 per person. Here’s how we spent our 2 days there.