North Goa vs South Goa: we split our time between the two, and it almost felt like two separate vacations. South Goa is where you go to do absolutely nothing. North Goa is where you party.
Jump to a section: Getting Around · Goa’s Culture · South Goa Vibe · Where We Ate in South Goa · South Goa Beaches · North Goa Vibe · Where We Ate in North Goa · South Anjuna Beach · The Cows of Goa · Which Should You Pick? · FAQs
Getting Around Goa
Goa does not have Uber. We had to download a separate app, GoaMiles, instead. GoaMiles has fought hard to keep Uber out of the region, so don’t expect to land and start calling cars the way you normally would. If you’re staying outside a major tourist strip (like we were in South Goa), booking a car can be annoying, so plan ahead.
Goa’s Culture: Why It Feels So Different from the Rest of India
Goa does not feel like the rest of India, and there’s a reason for that. It was a Portuguese colony for about 450 years, from 1510 until 1961, long after the rest of India gained independence from the British. That history is everywhere.
- Churches: Goa has a large Catholic population and whitewashed churches all over the state. The most famous is the Basilica of Bom Jesus in Old Goa, a UNESCO World Heritage Site that holds the remains of St. Francis Xavier.
- Architecture: colorful Portuguese-style houses with tiled roofs and big balconies, especially in Fontainhas, the old Latin Quarter of Panjim.
- Food: Goan dishes mix Indian spices with Portuguese influence. Vindaloo actually comes from a Portuguese dish, vinha d’alhos (wine and garlic). Look for xacuti curry, fish curry rice, bebinca (a layered dessert), and feni, a local liquor made from cashew fruit or coconut.
- Susegad: a local word, borrowed from Portuguese, for Goa’s relaxed, unhurried way of life. It’s the whole vibe of the place.
South Goa: The Vibe
South Goa felt more family-oriented at first, which wasn’t really what I expected. That changed fast once we learned about what travelers call the “Hummus Trail,” a well-worn route through India that’s especially popular with Israeli travelers decompressing after military service. There are a lot of Israelis in Goa, and a lot of restaurants have Hebrew menus and advertise “Israeli food” specifically.
I even saw a German bakery advertising Russian and Israeli food, which was my first hint that Russians, Israelis, and Europeans in general flock to South Goa for the beach and the slow pace. Lots of white families cruising around on mopeds, lots of backpackers of every age just chilling. Nobody stares at you here. It’s foreigner land, through and through.
Where We Stayed in South Goa
We stayed in an Airbnb with a great view, close enough to walk to the beach, but far enough from the main strip that calling a car was a pain. Worth keeping in mind if you book somewhere outside a tourist hub.
Where We Ate in South Goa
The food isn’t the reason to come to Goa. Don’t overthink it, just go where your heart pulls you. Nothing was amazing, everything was fine. Here’s where we ended up:
- The Wave: an eco beach resort where we had our first dinner. Very Western food, a little expensive, quite good.
- Sea Breeze: casual beachfront food on Agonda Beach.
- Karma Cafe Bakery and Cuba Beach Cafe: easy, low-key spots.
- Corvo Rindo: along Agonda Beach, but it has since closed down.
After dinner at The Wave, we found a nearby beachfront cafe (there are plenty) to have a smoothie, watch the sunset, and go in the water a bit.
Beaches We Visited in South Goa
Palolem Beach, Patnem Beach, and Agonda Beach were our main spots. All three are the kind of beach where the whole point is to do nothing. Grab a lounger, get a smoothie, watch the sunset, repeat.
North Goa: The Vibe
North Goa is noticeably more expensive than South Goa, with a reputation for being livelier and having more restaurants and nightlife. The catch: it’s a solid 1.5+ hour drive from South Goa, so you really need to pick one as your base, or give yourself real time to do both like we did.
We stayed in Vagator, which was a good home base for exploring the area. One thing I liked about North Goa: you can have a very casual beach day and then go somewhere that feels surprisingly upscale for dinner and drinks.
Where We Ate (and Drank) in North Goa
- W Goa: known for its restaurant lounge with a gorgeous sunset view. I don’t recommend it (story below).
- JW Marriott Goa: we ended our first night with dessert by the pool, an absolutely lovely time. A night there is about $250 USD, so it’s a splurge, but I wish we could have stayed.
- Jai Ganesh: ice cream with fruit (story below).
- Hosa: a well-rated dinner spot.
- Hideaway Cafe and Bar: cocktails after dinner. High-end and swanky, kind of reminded me of a Los Angeles crowd.
About the W. There was a minimum spend of around $50 per person, which is a lot in India, and the food and service were both HORRIBLE. Like, I left a 1-star review on Google. And before I left, I snitched on everybody. I truly believe in my heart that one of the servers was possessed by a demon, and I rebuked her and wasn’t scared of her at all.
About Jai Ganesh. It doesn’t look like much. It was basically a slice of ice cream on top of a bowl of fruit. And good golly gee, it was delectable. Like how and why did you just feed me a slice of ice cream as if it were a slice of bread and it was amazing? I don’t know, but it was.
South Anjuna Beach
We walked the entire length of South Anjuna Beach looking for a nice beach club, and ended up at Happy Hours Restaurant at the very end, right next to a cliff and some rocks. Nothing special, but we were away from most of the crowds, so it was a nice spot to hop in the water.
The Cows of Goa
There are plenty of cows walking around in both North and South Goa, and feeding them is one of my favorite things to do. So I’d grab fruit from our free hotel breakfast buffet, put it in my purse, and walk around giving it to the cows.
The cows mostly eat trash on the street. Like, I’ve seen them eat Styrofoam and newspapers. I assume they’re also owned by someone who feeds them sometimes, because I saw shop owners feeding them at different points. There was something very funny about walking around Goa with a purse full of hotel breakfast fruit specifically to find cows.
North Goa or South Goa: Which Should You Pick?
- Pick South Goa if you want to fully unplug: beach, cafe, sunset, water, repeat.
- Pick North Goa if you want more restaurants, more nightlife, nicer hotels, and more going on.
I wouldn’t stay in one and keep day-tripping to the other. The drive is long enough that you’ll spend a decent chunk of your vacation sitting in a car. If you have the time, though, I really liked doing both. South Goa was where we went to completely chill out. North Goa was where we went to eat, drink, wander around, and occasionally pay way too much money to be served terrible food by a possibly possessed woman.
FAQs
Does Goa have Uber?
No. Download GoaMiles instead.
How far is North Goa from South Goa?
About 1.5+ hours by car, depending on traffic and where exactly you’re staying.
Is North Goa or South Goa better for a relaxing trip?
South Goa. It’s the laid-back, do-nothing option. North Goa has more restaurants, nightlife, and higher-end hotels.
Can you visit both North and South Goa on one trip?
Yes, but give yourself time to move bases instead of trying to day-trip between them.
Why is Goa so different from the rest of India?
Goa was a Portuguese colony for about 450 years, until 1961. That’s why you’ll see Catholic churches, Portuguese-style houses, and Goan dishes like vindaloo that come from Portuguese recipes.
When is the best time to visit Goa?
November to February is the most popular time, with dry, sunny weather. Monsoon season (roughly June to September) brings heavy rain, and many beach shacks close.
Final Thoughts
South Goa is for doing nothing, North Goa is for doing a little too much, and if you have the time, do both.
Goa was one stop on our 25-day India itinerary across Rajasthan, Mumbai, Goa and Kerala, and if you’re flying in from the city, my 3 days in Mumbai guide is a good place to start.