I arrived in Montevideo expecting a softer, quieter version of Argentina, and that assumption wasn’t far off.
It’s almost suspiciously chill. Just mate in hand and a strong commitment to staying unbothered.
(For context: mate in Uruguay is more than a drink. It’s a ritual. A caffeinated herbal infusion made from yerba mate leaves, passed around socially and consumed all day.)
Montevideo doesn’t try hard. It simply exists.
Montevideo was one stop on my accidental solo bachelorette trip through Latin America. From here I had a layover in Buenos Aires on the way to Santiago, Chile.
Jump to:
- Cost of Living in Uruguay
- Demographics & History
- Where to Stay
- What to Do
- What to Eat (Brace Yourself)
- Final Thoughts
Cost of Living in Uruguay
Uruguay is the most expensive country in South America. I had heard this. I thought I understood. I did not.
I walked into a grocery store and bought one apple, one yogurt, and a bottle of water. $8 USD.
Later, I ordered a soup and a matcha. $22 USD. This country does not play about its coins. Everything costs more than you expect, and somehow everyone seems perfectly relaxed about it. That said, I’ve also heard that many Uruguayans are moving to more affordable neighboring countries, while folks from those neighboring countries come to Uruguay seeking better-paying jobs. So maybe it is a bit of an issue.
Demographics & History
The demographics surprised me too. Uruguay’s Indigenous population, especially the Charrúa people, were intentionally and nearly completely wiped out. The most brutal moment was the Salsipuedes massacre in 1831, when the government killed all Charrúa leaders. This is only recently being openly discussed and acknowledged. I didn’t feel the Indigenous roots here the way I did in Paraguay or Chile, which was really sad.
Today, Uruguay is overwhelmingly European in ancestry. Most immigration came from Spain and Italy, with smaller communities from Britain, Ireland, France, and Germany. You see it in the architecture, the surnames, and the fair-skinned people.
People here are warm. No dramatic welcomes, just polite kindness, helpful directions, and a general sense that everyone is chill.
Where to Stay in Montevideo
I stayed at Destino26 Hostel for $17 USD a night. Great bathrooms, good vibes, and I made friends easily. Simple, clean, and social without being chaotic.
What to Do in Montevideo
Montevideo is more of a mood than a sightseeing hub. Once you know that, you’ll be able to have fun.
The best one: walk the Rambla. I love long-distance walking, so this 22 km (about 13 miles) trail along the beach is actually very fun for me. The coastal promenade wraps around the city like a front porch. Even if you do not swim, the walk is peaceful and full of runners and families. Swoon.
Get a rooftop view. Head to the Panoramic Viewpoint. I went twice, once during the day and once at night, and surprisingly it’s free to get up there.
I visited the Museo de Historia del Arte (MuHAr) in Montevideo, where I found there was more information about other parts of the world than about Uruguay. Statues from Azerbaijan, Cambodia, and a lot from Egypt filled the museum.
A memorable exhibition was the mummy and reconstructed bust of Priestess Isis from Egypt. I was super perplexed by this… why in the hell is an Egyptian mummy all the way down here in Uruguay? Like… why? But the answer is simply because the Egyptian government sold a lot of their artifacts at auction in the late 1800s… or were they stolen? I don’t know.
I went thrifting, but manage expectations. I don’t think Montevideo’s secondhand scene is worth traveling for.
What to Eat in Montevideo
I’ll just say it. Uruguayans cannot cook.
I heard Argentinians and Uruguayans have a friendly rivalry over who makes the best pizza. Pizza is my favorite food in all its forms, whether it’s deep dish, thin crust, or cardboard-adjacent.
I was very excited about Italian immigrant recipes with some South American flair. I tried three of the city’s “top” pizza spots. I don’t know what happened, but they have lost their way. One interesting thing, though, is the fainá.
Fainá is a thin, savory, gluten-free flatbread made from chickpea flour, water, olive oil, and salt. It is a beloved staple in Uruguay (and neighboring Argentina), traditionally served alongside pizza. It originated in Genoa, Italy, as farinata and was brought by Italian immigrants in the early 20th century. So that was fun to try.
At a certain point, I stopped chasing greatness and accepted that this was not a food city. Montevideo is a grilled meat and good intentions city. And that’s okay.
Desperate for a good meal, I headed to Expreso Pocitos in the famous Pocitos neighborhood, open since 1910. I asked the server for a sandwich recommendation, and they suggested their best seller: something with olives, eggs, and artichokes, all things I actually love.
Then the sandwich shows up: bread soaked in cheese, topped with canned artichoke rings, a flavorless boiled egg, and olives straight out of the jar.
That was it. Right then, I made my verdict: Montevideo don’t know nothing.
There is one place to try that I didn’t, and that’s Café Brasilero. Built in 1877, the Brazilian-themed café still retains much of its architectural history. The building has preserved its chairs, brass chandeliers, and window frames outlining its Art Nouveau-style facade from that earlier era. The walls are also covered with photos, newspaper clippings, and paintings from the café’s past. It wasn’t open when I went 🙁
Final Thoughts on Montevideo
Montevideo is a lovely place to be, but not necessarily a place to do.
If you arrive expecting nonstop activity, nightlife, or mind-blowing food, you may feel underwhelmed.
If you arrive ready to relax, walk by the water, and exist quietly, you’ll enjoy it.
If I returned, I would probably base myself in Punta del Este. It’s more developed for tourism, has stronger nightlife, and is easily reached by bus from Tres Cruces in about two to two and a half hours.
I do wish I had one unforgettable meal.
Just one.