I flew from Malta to Los Angeles with Turkish Airlines, which included a layover in Istanbul. I’d heard Turkish Airlines will extend layovers up to three days, an incentive to stay in Turkey and spend some money – makes sense and it’s mutually beneficial. So, I called to see if I could extend mine and maybe get some accommodations covered by the airline.
They still run a layover program, but it’s more for passengers who already have long layovers—not something they’ll extend for you on request. Maybe I don’t have the special sauce to work this – I wish you luck in applying.
In the end, I had about 21 hours to make the most of Istanbul.
Main Attractions
First stops were the must-sees: the Blue Mosque, a stunning example of Ottoman architecture and spiritual heart of the city, built in the early 1600s with its iconic six minarets and cascading domes. Of course, the Hagia Sophia, once a cathedral, mosque, museum, and now a grand mosque again. It’s a testament to Istanbul’s layered history and its changing civilizations.
It’s wild to think modern Istanbul is the same city once called Constantinople, the capital of the Byzantine Empire, and later the heart of the Ottoman Empire — rulers of the Balkans and fierce rivals of Russia for centuries. WILD.
I didn’t have time for: the Topkapi Palace. Historic palace complex that served as the residence of Ottoman sultans for 600 years. An extraordinary journey through history awaits you in the heart of Istanbul’s Sultanahmet.
The Basilica Cistern, an underground water reservoir built by Byzantines.
Galata Tower, for sweeping views over the Bosphorus; or a Bosphorus ferry ride, the perfect way to see Europe and Asia at the same time.
Come prepared to Shop
The Grand Bazaar is a sprawling labyrinth of shops where you could get lost for hours; the Spice Bazaar, fragrant and chaotic with everything from saffron to Turkish delight – I have a better rec for Turkish delight below.
The Rug Hunt.
I’d been dreaming of buying a Turkish rug, and this was my main priority to buy on my layover. I went into the bazaars ready to haggle. You need to know your stuff before you go — prices in your home country, types of rugs, what’s authentic — because sellers are absolutely trying to swindle.
After some back and forth, I negotiated a 4×7 rug down to $400 USD. I still don’t know if that’s a fair price. You need to come with patience, a bit of skepticism, and a willingness to walk away.
Eating and Drinking in Istanbul: What Stuck With Me
- Yeni Lokanta — A basement spot that’s very hip. A friend swears it’s the best restaurant in Turkey right now, and I’m inclined to believe it.
- Mikla — High-end pent house restaurant with a tasting menu and killer views of the city skyline. I opted for wine at the bar because getting a res isn’t easy.
- Mandabatmaz — Hands down, the best Turkish coffee I’ve had. Thick, strong, and perfectly bitter—the kind of coffee that makes you pause.
- Karaköy Lokantası — A favorite for fish and meze dishes. Fresh, vibrant, and reliably good.
- Smelt & Co — Run by two young chefs, who used to work at Copenhagen’s Noma.
- Foxy Nişantaşı — A great Turkish wine bar tucked away in an upscale neighborhood not usually on the tourist map — like Istanbul’s Upper East Side.
- Hacı Bekir Lokumcusu — The go-to spot for Turkish delight. Established in 1777 and near the Grand Bazaar, it’s the oldest and still the best. I bought a gift box for $70 USD and felt a little ripped off — someone made a dollar off me for sure.
What’s Next?
I can’t wait to go back to Turkey for more – to really travel the country – next time focusing mostly on history rather than shopping.
I’m most excited to travel to Göbekli Tepe. In Yuval Noah Harari’s Sapiens, wheat (specifically einkorn) was first domesticated in the hill country of southeastern Turkey, near the ancient site of Göbekli Tepe, around 9500-9000 BC, marking the start of the Agricultural Revolution in that region alongside the Levant and western Iran.“