I arrived in Asunción, Paraguay with no plan and no research, which is usually either a mistake or a gift. This time, it was a gift.
I wouldn’t recommend traveling to South America just to go to Paraguay. It’s not a tourism-forward country like Peru, Brazil, or Colombia. There are no headline attractions pulling you in, Iguazu Falls is a ~6 hour drive away, not close to Asuncion. The city does not perform for visitors.
A Country Marked by War
To understand Paraguay, you have to understand the shadow it lives under: the War of the Triple Alliance (1864–1870).
Paraguay fought Brazil, Argentina, and Uruguay at the same time. The result was catastrophic. The country lost most of its male population, along with its industry, infrastructure, and momentum as a nation. Some historians estimate that up to 70% of Paraguayan men died. Paraguay was effectively gutted.
You feel that history walking through downtown Asunción. Buildings look worn. Some areas feel unfinished.
When you visit the National Pantheon of Heroes, the grief and pride are braided together.
I don’t say this lightly: that kind of national trauma shapes a culture. There’s a gentleness here. A generosity. People meet you with openness instead of suspicion.
The Kindness Was Immediate
From the airport onward, every interaction felt very sincere taxi drivers, restaurant staff, people on the street, even the police.
There are parts of Asunción you shouldn’t go. Robbery risk is real. I didn’t test my luck. At one point I wandered too close to a neighborhood I shouldn’t have, and a policeman literally ran up to me and said, “Hey?!? get out of here.” I appreciated that more than anything.
What Asunción Is (and Isn’t)
The beaches? Not impressive.
The café culture? Some good ones, still developing. I liked El Cafe de Aca.
The food scene? Uneven.
But Asunción is extremely affordable.
I bought:
- Sandals for $6
- A gel manicure for $7
- Massive buffet meals for under $20
- Four tattoos for $10
I ate at Gaucho, a Paraguayan-style buffet that made one thing very clear: Brazil doesn’t own the grilled-meat crown. Most of South America does this as well.
There’s also a growing digital nomad and expat presence here, largely because of Paraguay’s tax system. If you establish residency, foreign income isn’t taxed. That doesn’t help Americans much (we’re taxed globally), which explains why the nomad crowd skews non-American—but it’s still notable.
Shopping malls are big here. Fashion exists, but clothing is surprisingly expensive compared to food and housing – like I bought a pair of denim shorts for $70 USD. Paraguay is not where you come to rebuild your wardrobe.
The People
One night I sat alone at Bolsi, a restaurant in an area I’d recommend for walking, eating, and nightlife. A group of young people noticed me and asked if I wanted to join them.
We walked around Plaza de la Libertad together, traded travel stories, and then they drove me home. It was one of those moments that reminds you why solo travel can be so fun. People step in.
Where I Stayed
I stayed at El Nómada Hostel, which was perfectly fine. I usually choose hostels when traveling alone—they make meeting people easier. This one introduced me to something new: three beds stacked vertically, which felt like a social experiment.
There were also cats on the property, which obviously matters.
Once I realized nearby hotels were only about $5 more per night, I switched after two nights and gave myself a door and some silence.
Final Thoughts on Asunción
If your travel time is limited, Asunción may not be the place. There simply isn’t that much to do in the traditional sense.
But if you want to see real life in South America — not curated, not glamorous, not optimized for content creation – Asunción is great,
It’s not mountains or beaches.
It’s malls and meat and worn-down streets.
I enjoyed my time in Paraguay deeply.