Despite being warned that it “wasn’t safe,” I rented a car ($40 USD/day) in Cape Town and drove us into wine country. We were fine. More than fine, actually. We just didn’t drive through any townships – which wasn’t difficult at all, nor did Google Maps even try to take us off the highway. We did have a designated driver not drinking though, which makes it easier.
The drive out of Cape Town is easy and quiet beautiful.
First Stop: Stellenbosch
Stellenbosch is a university town that is also very beautiful.
Home to Stellenbosch University, the town has a youthful, polished energy. Cafés are plentiful, sidewalks are walkable, and everything feels curated, and a tiny bit sterile. Stellenbosch reminds me a lot of Santa Barbara, California; compact, affluent, scenic, and very aware of its own artisanal charm.
Food
We originally tried to get into The Fat Butcher, a highly rated restaurant but it was fully booked — lesson learned to make reservations ahead using the DinePlan app. Instead, we ended up at Pottery Restaurant, where I ordered a burger topped with biltong jam, and it was genuinely remarkable. I’ll think about it for a long time. (biltong is South Africa’s famous air dried cured meat, like jerky but better).
La Motte Wine Farm: Art, Design, and restaurant
We started the wine portion of the day at La Motte Wine Estate, which feels less like a single winery and more like a carefully designed campus.
La Motte has:
- a small art gallery
- a stunning lobby I would absolutely copy into my own home
- a shop
- a bakery
- a restaurant
- and, of course, wine tastings
Everything is beautiful.
Klein Goederust: The Only Black-Owned Wine Farm in the Area
Next door, we visited Klein Goederust, the only Black-owned wine farm in the region — and my #1 priority item of the day.
They offer a lamb braai buffet, and it was well-seasoned and comforting – like a family cookout. We did a wine tasting afterward, and the experience felt personal.
The owner named one of his wines after his late mother, who spent her life working on wine farms. Her story — and his —holds deep significance for Black South Africans, especially in a white dominated industry.
Babylonstoren: A Living, Breathing Farm
From there, we went to Babylonstoren, which is on an entirely different scale.
Babylonstoren is massive; a full agricultural estate where you can walk through gardens growing vegetables, fruits, herbs, and flowers. It’s part farm, part design project, part restaurant, part home goods store, part venue, part…..
You can absolutely spend the whole day here, and probably should.
Hazendal Wine Estate: Where Art Meets Stillness
We ended the day at Hazendal Wine Estate. The property includes beautifully designed rooms overlooking a man-made lake. Stunning.
What surprised me most was the art.
The estate has a strong focus on contemporary African art, woven throughout the hotel and public spaces. Walking through the halls feels like being in a gallery than a hotel. In fact, they offer an art tour through the property.
Wine Estates I Missed
There simply wasn’t enough time. Next visit, these are at the top of my list:
- Aslina Wines – another Black-owned wine brand founded in 2016 by Ntsiki Biyela.
- Delaire Graff Estate – Luxury estate known for their art.
- Tokara Wine Estate – wine, olive oil, and architecture
- La Cotte Farm – Located on the forest edge of one of Franschhoek’s oldest farms, these lavishly simple self-catering cottages offer incredible views over the forest.
- Holden Manz – Offers delicious light meals, picnics and guided tastings set amidst the vineyards on Holden Manz Wine Estate.
Franschhoek Wine Tram Route
This is the iconic way to explore Franschhoek’s vineyards — a hop-on-hop-off tram. There are 5 different routes offered, but the blue line contains Klein Goederust, so that’s the one I recommend. It’s about $20 USD, and totally worth it I heard.
Where Stellenbosch Really Landed for Me
In another life, I would take the full three months my visa allows and stay right here.
I’d read in the mornings. Write in the afternoons. Hike when the weather allowed. Sit by a window and mind my business.
I will definitely be back!