Cairo, Alexandria, Luxor & Hurghada — 2015
I spent two weeks in Egypt when I was 22, starting in Cairo and traveling through Alexandria, Luxor, and Hurghada. It was truly the trip of a lifetime.
Egypt gets a lot of negative press, especially when it comes to treatment of women, and scams. I would never tell someone “don’t go,” but I do think it’s important to be honest about what the experience can be like.
Overall, I had an amazing time.
The Hard Parts
Objectification of Women
Let’s start with the worst:
In crowded markets, where it’s hard to find the assailant, my body was touched and grabbed multiple times by multiple men. Think someone running up, honking your chest, and running away.
I usually wore long sleeves, long skirts or pants, but only sometimes covered my hair.
Egypt is a conservative society, shaped by religion, tradition, and social norms that place strict expectations on women’s appearance and behavior.
If you go: Cover up completely. Also I rarely saw women walking alone. like never. Solo female travelers would really stand out. I’m glad I didn’t go alone.
Scams
Scams are common in Egypt — not just against tourists, but locals too.
Get used to people bombarding you — offering inflated prices, tours, services any kind of goods.
In Cairo, a random man tried to charge our taxi driver for a parking fee. There was no parking fee, he was just a random man collecting fees on behalf of no one. This type of thing was prevalent.
In Luxor, a group of boys offered us a “free” boat ride across the Nile. They insisted – they were already going on a ride, and wanted to meet Americans and hang out with us. During the ride, we laughed, exchanged music. It was fun.
They said they had a friend in Hurghada who would pick us up when our bus arrived. “His name is Obama. He looks like Obama.” They even called him in front of us to confirm the pick up.
When the boat ride ended, we gave them cigarettes (a common tip) and $5 USD just for the vibes. They were furious. Full-on screaming that I owed them more money, grabbing at my bag. I couldn’t give more that was all the cash I had left, they demanded we go to the ATM, we refused and everyone left the altercation pissed.
The Beautiful Parts
Hurghada
We left that altercation to take a 4 hour bus ride to Hurghada (It was only $3 USD) and maybe meet “Obama.” Well the bus ride turned into 9 hours because of traffic, and we arrived in Hurghada at 1 AM with no hotel and no service.
We exited the bus, and there he was. – Obama waiting for us in the dark with his car. and he does actually look like Obama.
He insisted we stay at his house instead of paying for a hotel. He gave us his bed and and he and his wife slept on the floor. We stayed with him for 3 nights, he drove us around, showed us the city, and put us in touch for activities like snorkeling and diving in the Red Sea.
Hurghada is a resort town on the Red Sea, famous for coral reefs, scuba diving, and beach tourism. It felt completely different from Cairo — slower, brighter, and more relaxed. Hanging with Obama was one of the most memorable days of my life.
There are good people and bad people everywhere. Egypt is no different.
Motorcycle Day
In Luxor, I rented a motorcycle with about 15 minutes of training. No helmet was offered. This was 2015 — hopefully things have improved since then. I went on a beautiful drive down the roads of Luxor. It was magical.
Once I reached an intersection, trying to navigate traffic and switch gears at the same time, I crashed into a man’s car door as he opened it. I flipped over the front of the bike.
I was wearing a long skirt and it lifted over my head as I fell. For a brief moment in the air, two thoughts arrived in sequence. First: protect your head. Second: everyone can see your underwear.
I lay there in the street, very aware of my scraped hands, knees and elbows. And a small circle of attention starts to form around me. I know everyone just saw my underwear and the whole intersection has stopped to look at me, gasping and slamming on their brakes.
I immediately just start scream-crying. The shock had only way to exit. I was embarrassed, and overwhelmed — but physically okay. A group of older women rushed to me, covered me, took me inside a house, cleaned my wounds, and scolded the man driving – even though it wasn’t his fault.
As I walked by him, covered by the woman, the driver fell to his knees with his hands in the air, motioning for my forgiveness. I felt horrible.
The women took care of me. None of them spoke English, I don’t speak Arabic. I was crying because I was overwhelmed by the crash but also by their kindness.
Egypt provides experiences you can’t get anywhere else
Hurghada and Scuba Diving in the Red Sea
The Red Sea is one of the best diving regions in the world. Warm water. Clear visibility. Coral reefs and tropical fish everywhere. It’s a completely different side of Egypt— quiet, colorful, and rarely mentioned compared to the chaos on land.
Alexandria
Once home to the Great Library of Alexandria, the most famous center of knowledge in the ancient world. Scholars believe it held hundreds of thousands of scrolls on science, philosophy, medicine, and astronomy. Most of it was lost to fires, invasions, and time.
Luxor
Often called the world’s greatest open-air museum, Luxor sits on the ancient city of Thebes. This is where you’ll find:
- The Valley of the Kings
- Karnak Temple
- Luxor Temple
I took a hot air balloon ride over the Nile at sunrise for $50 USD, floating above temples that were built over 3,000 years ago. Surreal doesn’t even begin to cover it.
The Nile
Taking a cruise on the Nile felt like stepping into a history book. This river shaped Egyptian civilization — agriculture, trade, religion, everything.
Cairo & the Pyramids of Giza
Standing near the Great Pyramids is overwhelming in every sense. The history is undeniable — but so is the noise. Vendors bark at you. People follow you. You’re required to go with a guide, and you’ll want one.
Yes, it’s touristy. Extremely. But if you can block out the crowd and the pressure, being that close to something so old can shift your perspective in ways that are hard to explain.
Final Thoughts
Egypt is ancient. She can be chaotic, frustrating and spiritual. Some people are generous, some people are crooks. It is beautiful, and also unsafe — all at once.
- I experienced assault and harassment.
- I crashed a motorcycle.
- I was also protected by strangers, welcomed into homes, and stood in places that changed how I see history.
Go, but just know how it can be.