I did a simple Google search for “where to go in Brazil” and Florianópolis kept coming up. More and more Western digital nomads are relocating there, and I see why.
Floripa feels a lot like Portugal’s Azores, which makes sense. When Portugal colonized Brazil, settlers from the Azores were brought here to manage the land. If you’ve been to the Azores and then come to Floripa, it feels very culturally similar, between the volcanic landscape and the slow island rhythm.
I spent two weeks here. There were moments when it felt slow, even boring. In hindsight, I was the most relaxed I’d been in a while, and I got the best sleep I’ve had in ages.
My only worry each day was which hike, which beach and where to swim. Floripa wasn’t very exciting, but it was hella restorative. This Florianópolis travel guide covers everything I’d tell a friend: where to stay, the best hikes, the beaches worth your time, and where to eat.
This post contains affiliate links. If you book through them, I may earn a small commission at no extra cost to you.
Language, Culture & Getting Around
I had just spent six weeks in Rio de Janeiro taking Portuguese lessons, so by the time I got to Floripa, I was conversational and ready. But Portuguese isn’t really necessary in Floripa. Most people speak English well.
The island has a noticeable health and wellness culture, similar to Hawaii. You’ll see açaí everywhere (as you should, this is Brazil), along with supplement shops, organic everything, and juice bars.
If you’re going from one end of the island to the other, an Uber is about $15 USD by car and maybe $7 USD by moto. I mostly took motos, and for short distances it was as low as $1.50. I wouldn’t rent a car here unless you like driving and just want to ride in style.
Where to Stay in Florianópolis
I stayed in Lagoa da Conceição, and I think it’s the best base. I wrote a whole post on where to eat and what to do in Lagoa if you end up staying there too.
It’s central, scenic, and well connected to beaches and hikes. I went to Centro only once and immediately knew I wouldn’t be back. It’s congested, hectic, and not my vibe. That said, sunset at the bridge in Centro is beautiful.
If your priority is meeting other travelers, most organized meetups (Timeleft, Nomad Table, etc.) tend to happen in Centro, so that’s worth considering.
The Best Hikes in Florianópolis
Floripa is a hiker’s island!! I did nearly all the major trails, and these are my favorites.
Trilha Lagoinha do Leste (Must-Do)
The best hike, no question. I did it solo and it took me nearly seven hours. I stopped to lay on the beach, and I didn’t bring water or snacks, which was very foolish and very regrettable. It has the most varied terrain and it’s definitely the hardest hike on the island. If you only do one hike in Florianópolis and you’re physically up for it, make it this one.
If you’d rather not go alone like I did, you can book a guided Lagoinha do Leste hike. And please, bring water.
Trilha da Costa da Lagoa (Favorite Overall Experience)
It’s about four miles, and the terrain changes a lot, in a good way. Some parts you’re scrambling through jungle, and others you’re strolling through a small village. You’ll pass a waterfall (grossly affected by people’s sunscreen and overuse, EW), but if you walk all the way to the end, you’ll find tons of restaurants.
We ate at Restaurante Cabral Parador 19, the last restaurant at the end of the trail and the most upscale. If I went again, I’d try one of the mid-range spots too.
Trilha para Galheta
Not too hard, not too easy. It’s about 30 minutes uphill, you get panoramic views right away, and then you head down to a secluded beach you can only reach on foot. The sand is firm and it’s quiet, so bring a picnic. From Galheta, you can keep walking to Mole Beach, which has more people because you can drive right up to it.
Lighthouse Hike (Barra da Lagoa)
An easy hike with great views… except I got lost and never found the lighthouse. It’s a loop, and the view from the top was nice. An Uber driver told me he does it every week for sunrise and sunset. I somehow managed to miss the lighthouse entirely, which I know is a personal flaw. Go do what I could not.
The Best Beaches in Florianópolis
I visited every major beach on the island. Here are the best:
Praia da Barra da Lagoa
If you’re staying in Lagoa (which I recommend), this is the closest beach and it delivers. Nice sand, nice waves, and some vendors, but not so many that it’s annoying. My overall favorite.
Galheta, Mole and Gravatá Beaches
I did these three on the same day. Hike to Galheta (the only way to get there), then keep walking to Mole, which you can also drive to. From there, keep hiking to Gravatá, another beach you can only reach on foot. It’s tiny, with beautiful boulders.
Jurerê
This is the fancy part of the island. It almost feels like a resort town. The cafés are more expensive and modern, and the crowd matches. The beach itself is very nice.
From there, I walked to Daniela Beach, which locals recommended. It’s very family-heavy, with kids and picnic coolers everywhere. The water is warm and shallow, but it wasn’t that pretty to me.
Moçambique Beach
It’s a long, wide beach and it’s quiet. Go here when you want to do absolutely nothing. There are little pockets of tiny beaches tucked into the hills, and I saw a lot of couples drive up and take over their own little corner to BBQ.
Campeche Beach
You get great views of Campeche Island from here. It wasn’t crowded at all, and I went multiple times. You’ll need to do a short walk or hike to get there. Go after eating at Cumbuca restaurant.
If you want to actually go out to the island, you can take a speedboat to Campeche Island, or do a boat ride to Campeche Island and Lagoa da Conceição to see both in one day.
Where to Eat & Drink in Floripa
Food on the island is a bit hit-or-miss overall, but these places stood out.
Nosso Café
A huge breakfast buffet for around $20 USD. The food was really good, the staff were sweet, and there were literally cows grazing in the background. Go here before a beach day at Praia da Barra da Lagoa.
Um Tributo ao Café
Really good coffee and really nice people. I don’t have any complaints.
Palatooh
This is where to go for a nicer dinner. Get there before sunset, because the view is the best part (see the photo below). The food was good too.
Rosso
It’s right on the water and good for a group dinner. The food and service were both good, and a local told me it’s better than Ostradamus (more on that below).
Mercado São Jorge
A wellness market with a café and a really good buffet inside. It has nearly perfect Google reviews, and it deserves them. It’s a little expensive by local standards, but worth it.
Otto Café (Jurerê)
Small menu, good drinks, and Otto the dog greets you at the door. The owner is really nice too.
Ostradamus
This place shows up on every list of Floripa’s best restaurants, but a local told me it’s overrated and to go to Rosso instead. I didn’t actually go, but the reviews are very good, so I wanted to mention it anyway.
Final Thoughts on Florianópolis
Floripa is one of my favorite places.
It may feel slow in the moment, but looking back, it was exactly what I needed.
You gotta go!
Planning more of Brazil? Check out my 5-day Rio de Janeiro itinerary, my São Paulo travel guide, my guide to visiting Recife, and what to buy in Brazil before you fly home.