Kigali is clean, green, full of police, and a little more expensive than its neighboring capitals like Nairobi and Kampala. Rwanda takes cleanliness seriously: plastic bags have been banned for over a decade, the streets are swept daily, and monthly community clean-up days (Umuganda) are a national ritual.
The air quality, however, doesn’t quite match the lush scenery. Between traffic and construction, the smog can be heavy and stinky at times.
The city feels young, not just in energy but in population. Much of Kigali was rebuilt after the 1994 genocide, and many families left during that period. What you see today is a modern, fast-developing city still shaping its identity. It’s an interesting place.
Jump to:
- A Brief History of Kigali
- Getting Around Kigali
- What to Do in Kigali
- Rwandan Fashion Brands to Know
- Fitness and Outdoor Spaces
- Restaurants Worth Trying
- Getting Out of the City
- Final Thoughts on Kigali
A Brief History of Kigali
Kigali became Rwanda’s capital in 1962, after independence from Belgium. Before that, it was a small colonial outpost. Most of the city’s current infrastructure was built after the genocide, modeled on cities like Dubai and Singapore, which makes Kigali feel more modern than many African capitals. The country has invested heavily in stability, tourism, and tech, earning Kigali the nickname “Silicon Valley of Africa.”
Getting Around Kigali
English is spoken, but not universally, and having local apps makes everything smoother. The first thing you’ll want to download is Yego, a ride-hailing app in the city. There’s also Move, another popular option, but you’ll need a Rwandan phone number to download and use it.
If you’re staying for a week or longer, I highly recommend getting a local eSIM. We got one from MTN when we arrived in Kigali. You can visit an MTN store with your passport and have it set up quickly. Don’t deal with the guys outside; go into the store itself. This gives you a Rwandan number, which unlocks a few essentials: the Move app for rides, and MoMo (Mobile Money), which everyone uses.
MoMo is huge in Rwanda. Many people and restaurants don’t accept credit cards, and cash isn’t ideal either. Vendors often don’t have change, which means you’ll overpay and burn through cash fast. With MoMo, you can pay for rides, food, and everyday purchases easily, the way locals do.
I rode a lot of motos. They’re cheap and everywhere, but the experience can be very frustrating. The drivers don’t usually speak English, and GPS isn’t widely used the way it is elsewhere. The drivers navigate by landmarks and verbal directions, not maps. Showing them your phone for directions doesn’t always help, because they’re not used to reading it.
Set yourself up for success if you’re staying a while: download Yego and Move, and set up your eSIM and MoMo. It will make your trip much smoother.
What to Do in Kigali
How to Find Events in Kigali
Visit Sinc Events or download the SINC app. It’s an easy way to find local events, pop-ups, and cultural happenings.
You can also check Eventsbash.rw, a similar concept to Sinc where you can easily filter by the type of event you’re looking for.
And follow Instagram pages like @livinginkigali.
The Kigali Genocide Memorial
This is not a light visit. The Kigali Genocide Memorial is graphic, deeply emotional, and informative. The memorial documents the 1994 genocide against the Tutsi, when an estimated 800,000 to 1,000,000 people were murdered in just 100 days, and how colonial rule laid the groundwork for that violence long before 1994.
What shocked me most was learning how much Belgian colonial rule shaped “Hutu” and “Tutsi.” The terms existed before colonization, but they were more fluid social groupings, and Rwanda was also made up of ~18 clans that cut across them. The Belgians turned them into fixed “races” based on skin tone, nose shape, height, and wealth, then cemented it through mandatory ethnic identity cards. Tutsis were considered taller, lighter, slimmer-nosed, and wealthier. One widely cited rule: if you owned 10 or more cows, you were classified as Tutsi. About 15% of the population became Tutsi, roughly 84% Hutu, and around 1% Twa, an Indigenous forest people.
I didn’t leave feeling inspired or uplifted. But it is one of the most important museums in Rwanda, and honestly, one of the most important museums I’ve ever visited. I’m glad I didn’t skip it.
Hôtel des Mille Collines
Also known as Hotel Rwanda, this is the real hotel behind the 2004 film starring Don Cheadle.
I went for the lunch buffet, 30,000 Rwandan francs (about $20 USD), and it was very good: a mix of local and international dishes, solid service, and a nice atmosphere. It’s one of those places where history and tourism collide, and it did feel a bit odd to casually have lunch here.
Kigali’s Café Culture
Kigali has an amazing café scene. It’s easily my favorite part of the city, so much so that I tried 15 of them and wrote a whole separate guide to the best cafés in Kigali for digital nomads. If you only have time for a few, start here:
- Question Coffee: widely considered the best coffee in the city. I preferred the Kiyovu location for the view.
- Ikawa Rooftop Café: hands down the best African coffee and tea I had in Kigali, with views to match.
- Indabo Café (Kiyovu): a gorgeous space with an art studio upstairs and great food. Easy to linger here.
- One Cup Coffeehouse: I had a great tilapia lunch here and loved the view.
Art Galleries
Kigali’s art scene isn’t massive, but what exists is modern and thoughtful. (I wrote more about the African artists I’ve met across the continent, from Johannesburg to Nairobi.)
Gihanga Institute
The most beautiful building I saw in Kigali. It’s right next to Kivu Noir and feels very “artsy elite.”
Studio Mugire
Located right above Indabo Café, so definitely do both in one stop. The artist, David, is Kigali-based and incredibly talented. Intimate space, strong work.
Inema Arts Center
One of the most well-known art spaces in Kigali. Sculptures, paintings, a café, and a great view. It’s lively and social, not the kind of gallery where you feel like you need to whisper.
MADS Kigali
Owned by the brother of the founders of Inema Arts Center and just a short walk away. Easy to pair the two together.
Niyo Arts Center
More than a gallery, it’s a community space focused on youth, music, and social impact. Worth visiting for both the art and the mission.
Nyamirambo Women’s Center
Starts with a local snack and a quick Kinyarwanda lesson, then a guided walk. You can also add hands-on workshops like sisal basket weaving or a traditional cooking class. One of the best ways to experience the city beyond the surface.
Rwanda Art Museum
Located a bit outside central Kigali, but worth the trip if you’re interested in contemporary Rwandan art and don’t mind venturing out.
Rwandan Fashion Brands to Know
- House of Tayo: specializes in menswear
- Sonia Mugabo
- Rwanda Clothing Co
- Kezem
- Haute Baso: temporarily closed during my visit
If you love East African fashion, check out my 12 designers to know from Nairobi Fashion Week, too.
Fitness and Outdoor Spaces
- Zaria Court: a large complex that was recommended to me
- Fazenda Sengha: archery, ziplining, and more
- Cercle Sportif de Kigali: tennis courts, gym, sauna, and pool
Restaurants Worth Trying in Kigali
I ate out every day for the 14 days I was there. Here are the places I actually recommend.
Kozo
African-Asian fusion and one of the most upscale restaurants in Kigali. Owned by a mutual friend, with the original location in Accra, Ghana. Creative, flavorful, and beautifully done.
Indian Curries
The best chai I’ve ever had. Solid food and a rooftop view that made it even better.
Atmosphere Restaurant
A rooftop restaurant at a hotel. I’ve heard good things about the food, but I only stayed long enough for a $2 Rwandan Primus beer.
Khana Khazana (Kiyovu)
Another highly recommended Indian spot. I’m always fascinated by the Indian communities in Africa; some families have been here for 4 to 5 generations. Trying Indian food on the continent feels like part of the story.
Habesha Ethiopian
Because Ethiopian food is always a good idea. No explanation needed.
Chez Yasmine
Congolese food with a great view. Relaxed and upscale.
Getting Out of the City
Seeing Gorillas in Rwanda
The #1 most sought-after activity in Rwanda is, of course, trekking to see the mountain gorillas. There’s no shortage of guides and tour companies that can arrange it. In Rwanda, the permit alone costs $1,500 per person, and that’s before transportation, park fees, accommodation, and guides. Realistically, most people end up spending around $2,000 per person for the full experience.
For comparison, permits cost about $800 in Uganda and around $400 in the Democratic Republic of Congo. They are the same mountain gorillas: the borders are human, the forest is not. The guide who took us to Lake Kivu actually stayed behind in Gisenyi, near the DRC border, because he was meeting a client there to take them on a gorilla trek the next morning. Technically, we could have joined that trip as well.
Of course, there is ongoing conflict in parts of the DRC, which makes many travelers hesitant. But he does run those tours and even sent photos afterward. So… make of that what you will. (If you’d rather do a classic big-five safari instead, my 10-day Kenya itinerary covers safari, the coast, and Nairobi.)
Day Trip to Lake Kivu
If you come to Rwanda, go to Lake Kivu.
We paid $200 per person, although I think that’s a bit expensive for what it includes:
- Transportation to Lake Kivu
- Boat ride
- Coffee farm tour
- Entrance to the hot springs
- All food was excluded from this price.
We drove about 3.5 hours to Lake Kivu, then took a nearly 2-hour boat ride to Kinunu Guest House, which is a hotel and also a coffee farm. There, we saw the entire coffee process: how beans are separated, sorted, dried, and roasted. Beautiful farm, and an educational tour.
The Hot Springs Experience
Entry: 5,000 Rwandan francs (about $3.50)
Full experience: 40,000 francs (about $28)
The “full experience” includes:
- A full body scrub and massage
- Being buried in mud for 30 minutes
- Everyone staring at you
You will be watched by everyone. I would post pictures, but I don’t want to.
Where to Stay in Lake Kivu
This tour was originally a day trip, but we opted to stay overnight rather than do 6 hours in a car in one day. Many people stay at the Serena Hotel as part of tour packages. I stayed at Inzo Lodge, which was a glamping experience with tents or cabins in a lovely setting for about $50 to $60 USD a night. Across the street from Inzo is Galaxy Hotel (about $150+), a much larger hotel with a bar and restaurant and a direct view of the lake.
This area will keep developing. According to our tour guide, Rwanda’s president recently gifted Morocco an island on the lake to develop a five-star resort.
If money is not a concern, Rwanda has extremely luxurious options, like the One&Only lodges near Volcanoes and Nyungwe National Parks, at thousands of dollars a night. Putting them here just for us to look at.
Final Thoughts on Kigali
Kigali is modern and calm. I understand why people call it “utopian”: the streets are spotless, the city is green, and compared to its neighbors, it’s a bit expensive.
It isn’t overwhelmingly busy. There’s enough to do that you could go out every day, but not so much that you feel FOMO if you stay in. Kigali is a good place to slow down, drink good coffee, and sit in beautiful spaces.
It’s not perfect, and it’s still growing, but the city is clearly welcoming to digital nomads and foreign investment. I hope its modernization includes a stronger shift toward electric vehicles and sustainable infrastructure. If you’re building a longer East Africa trip, compare it with Nairobi for digital nomads, which is bigger, busier, and cheaper.
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