Kigali is clean, green, police everywhere and a little more expensive than it’s neighboring capitals like Nairobi and Kampala. Rwanda takes cleanliness seriously — plastic bags have been banned for a decade+, the streets are swept daily, and monthly community clean-up days (Umuganda) are a national ritual.
The air quality, however, doesn’t quite match the lush scenery. Between traffic and construction, the smog can be heavy and stinky at times.
The city feels young — not just in energy, but in population. Much of Kigali was rebuilt after the 1994 genocide, and many families left during that period. What you see today is a modern, fast-developing city still shaping its identity. It’s an interesting place.
Jump to:
- A Brief History of Kigali
- Getting Around Kigali
- What to Do in Kigali
- Rwandan Fashion Brands to Know
- Fitness & Outdoor Spaces
- Restaurants Worth Trying
- Getting Out of the City
- Final Thoughts on Kigali
A Brief History of Kigali
Kigali became Rwanda’s capital in 1962, after independence from Belgium. Before that, it was a small colonial outpost. Most of the city’s current infrastructure was built after the genocide, modeling cities like Dubai and Singapore, which makes Kigali feel more modern than many African capitals. The country has invested heavily in stability, tourism, and tech earning the name “Silicon Valley of Africa.”
Getting Around Kigali
English is spoken, but not universally, and having local apps makes everything smoother. The first thing you’ll want to download is Yego, a ride-hailing app in the city. There’s also Move, another popular option, but you’ll need a Rwandan phone number to download and use it.
If you’re staying for a week or longer, I highly recommend getting a local eSIM. We got one from MTN upon arrival in Kigali. You can visit an MTN store with your passport and have it set up quickly. Do not allow the guys outside to approach you – go into the store to get your MTN. This gives you a Rwandan number, which unlocks a few essentials: the Move app for rides, and MoMo (Mobile Money) — which everyone uses.
MoMo is huge in Rwanda. Many people and restaurants don’t accept credit cards, and cash isn’t ideal either. Vendors often don’t have change, which means you’ll overpay and burn through cash fast. With MoMo, you can pay for rides, food, and everyday purchases easily, the way locals do.
I rode a lot of motos. They’re cheap and everywhere, but the experience can be very frustrating. The motorists don’t usually speak english, and GPS isn’t widely used the way it is elsewhere. The drivers navigate by landmarks and verbal directions, not maps. Showing them your phone for directions oesn’t always help — they’re not used to reading it.
Set yourself up for success if you’re staying – download Yego and Move, and set up eSIM and MoMo. It will make your trip much smoother.
What to Do in Kigali
How to Find Events in Kigali
Visit Sinc Events or download the SINC app, it’s an easy way to find local events, pop-ups, and cultural happenings.
You can also check this website Eventsbash.rw – similar concept as sinc and you can easily filter the type of event you’re looking for.
Follow instagram pages like @livinginkigali
The Kigali Genocide Memorial
This is not a light visit. The Kigali Genocide Memorial is graphic, deeply emotional, and informative. The memorial documents the 1994 genocide against the Tutsi, when ~1,000,000 people were murdered in just 100 days and how the colonial rule really laid the groundwork for that violence long before 1994.
What shocked me most was learning that “Hutu and Tutsi” are labels created by the Belgians. Before colonization, Rwanda was made up of ~18 clans. Belgian colonial rule simplified that, creating a hierarchy based on skin tone, nose shape, height, and wealth, and then cemented it through mandatory ethnic identity cards. Tutsis were considered taller, lighter, with slimmer nose, and wealthier. If you owned 15+ cows, you were labeled Tutsi. About 15% of the population became Tutsi, roughly 84% Hutu, and around 1% Twa—an Indigenous pygmy group.
I didn’t leave feeling inspired or uplifted. But it is one of the most important museums in Rwanda, and honestly, one of the most important museums I’ve ever visited. I’m happy I didn’t skip it.
Hotel des Mille Collines
Also known as Hotel Rwanda, this is where the 2004 film starring Don Cheadle is based.
I went for the lunch buffet — 30,000 Rwandan francs (about $20 USD) — and it was very good. A mix of local and international dishes, solid service, and a nice atmosphere. It’s one of those places where history and tourism collide, it did feel a bit odd to casually have lunch here.
Kigali’s Café Culture
Kigali has an amazing café scene. This is easily my favorite part of the city, so much I wrote a whole separate blog about Kigali’s best cafes.
Kivu Noir
A great hangout spot. Every table was full of people meeting, working, or casually posted up with laptops. Very productive, social energy.
Indabo Café (Kiyovu)
A gorgeous space with an art studio upstairs. Families, solo workers, and relaxed vibes all mixed together. I really enjoyed the food and lingering here.
Ikawa Rooftop Café
Excellent African tea and African coffee, with views to match. This was hands down the best African coffee I had in the city.
One Cup Coffeehouse
I had a great tilapia lunch here and loved the view. Easy place to settle in and work for a while without feeling rushed.
Shambla Specialty
I wasn’t impressed with my coffee, but the view makes it worth stopping by if you want to work. Try your luck—or stick to a smoothie.
Rubia
Big, bright, and clearly a work hub. Everyone had laptops. The sandwiches didn’t impress me, but the energy was focused and productive.
Katina’s Kafé
A lovely concept—much of the staff is deaf, creating meaningful job opportunities. The food was actually really good, too.
Question Coffee
Two locations: Gishushu and Kiyovu. Gishushu is a full coffee campus, but I preferred Kiyovu for the view. Widely considered the best coffee in the city, and you can even buy their beans in grocery stores.
Perk & Plate
Good food, but the real highlight is the chicken that roams around asking for scraps. Feeding a chicken after a meal is my personal version of happiness.
Art Galleries
Kigali’s art scene isn’t massive, but what exists is modern and thoughtful.
Gihanga Institute – The most beautiful building I saw in Kigali. It’s right next to Kivu Noir and feels very “artsy elite.”
Studio Mugire – Located right above Indabo Café—definitely do both in one stop. The artist, David, is Kigali-based and incredibly talented. Intimate space, strong work.
Inema Arts Center
One of the most well-known art spaces in Kigali. Sculptures, paintings, a café, and a great view. It’s lively and social, not the kind of gallery where you feel like you need to whisper.
MADS Kigali
Owned by the brother of the founders of Inema Arts Center and just a short walk away. Easy to pair the two together.
Niyo Arts Center
More than a gallery—it’s a community space focused on youth, music, and social impact. Worth visiting for both the art and the mission.
Nyamirambo Women’s Center
Starts with a local snack and a quick Kinyarwanda lesson, then a guided walk. You can also add hands-on workshops like sisal basket weaving or a traditional cooking class. One of the best ways to experience the city beyond the surface.
Rwanda Art Museum
Located a bit outside central Kigali, but worth the trip if you’re interested in contemporary Rwandan art and don’t mind venturing out.
Rwandan fashion brands to know.
- House of Tayo – specializes in menswear
- Sonia Mugabo
- Rwanda Clothing Co
- Kezem
- Haute Baso – temporarily closed during my visit.
Fitness and outdoor park areas
- Zaria Court – Large complex recommended to me
- Fazenda Sengha – You can do archery, zipling and more here.
- Cercle Sportif de Kigali – has tennis courts, gym, sauna, pool.
Restaurants Worth Trying
I ate out everyday for the 14 days I visited. Here are the places I actually recommend.
Kozo
African–Asian fusion and one of the most upscale restaurants in Kigali. Owned by a mutual friend, with the original location in Accra, Ghana. Creative, flavorful, and beautifully done.
Indian Curries
The best chai I’ve ever had. Solid food and a rooftop view that made it even better.
Atmosphere Restaurant
Rooftop restaurant at a hotel. I’ve heard good things about the food, but I only stayed long enough for a $2 Rwandan Primus beer.
Khana Khazana (Kiyovu)
Another highly recommended Indian spot. I’m always fascinated by the Indian communities in Africa—some families have been here for 4-5 generations. Trying Indian food on the continent feels like part of the story.
Habesha Ethiopian
Because Ethiopian food is always a good idea. No explanation needed.
Chez Yasmine
Congolese food with a great view. Relaxed and upscale.
Getting Out of the City
Gorillas
The #1 most sought-after activity in Rwanda is, of course, trekking to see the mountain gorillas. There’s no shortage of guides and tour companies that can arrange it. In Rwanda, the permit alone costs $1,500 per person, and that’s before transportation, park fees, accommodation, and guides. Realistically, most people end up spending around $2,000 per person for the full experience.
For comparison, permits cost about $800 in Uganda and around $400 in the Democratic Republic of Congo. They are the same mountain gorillas — the borders are human, the forest is not. The guide who took us to Lake Kivu actually stayed behind in Gisenyi, near the DRC border, because he was meeting a client there to take them on a gorilla trek the next morning. Technically, we could have joined that trip as well.
Of course, there is ongoing conflict in parts of the DRC, which makes many travelers hesitant. But he does run those tours and even sent photos afterward. So… make of that what you will.
Day Trip to Lake Kivu
If you come to Rwanda, go to Lake Kivu.
We paid $200/PP although I think that’s a bit expensive for what it includes.
- Transportation to Lake Kivu
- Boat Ride
- Coffee Farm Tour
- Entrance to hot springs
- All food was excluded in this price.
We drove about 3.5 hours to Lake Kivu, then took a nearly 2-hour boat ride to Kinunu Guest House which is a hotel and also a coffee farm. There, we saw the entire coffee process: How beans are separated, sorted, dried, and Roasted. Beutiful farm, and educational tour.
The Hot Springs Experience
Entry: 5,000 Rwandan francs (about $4)
Full experience: 40,000 francs (about $26)
The “full experience” includes:
- A full body scrub and massage
- Being buried in mud for 30 minutes.
- Everyone staring at you
You will be watched by everyone. I would post pictures but, I don’t want to.
Where to Stay in Lake Kivu
This tour was originally a day trip, but we opted to stay over night rather than do 6 hours in a car in one day. Many people stay at the Serena Hotel as part of tour packages. I stayed at the Inzo Lodge which was a glamping experience – they have tents, or cabins, in a lovely setting for about $50 -$60 USD/night. Across the street from Inzo, is Galaxy Hotel which is about $150+, a much larger hotel with bar and restaurant with a direct view of the lake.
This area will continue to develop, the Rwandan president has just gifted Morocco an island on the lake to develop a 5 star resort. – as told to me by our tour guide.
If money is not a concern, Lake Kivu has extremely luxurious options like – One and Only Resort – at about $15,000 USD/night. Putting here just for us to look at.
Final Thoughts on Kigali
Kigali is modern and calm. I understand why people call it “utopian” — the streets are spotless, the city is green, and compared to it’s neighbors, it’s a bit expensive.
It isn’t overwhelmingly busy. There’s enough to do that you could go out every day, but not so much that you feel FOMO if you stay in. Kigali is a good place to slow, drink good coffee, sit in beautiful spaces.
It’s not perfect, and it’s still growing, but the city is clearly welcoming to digital nomads and foreign investment. I hope it’s modernization includes a stronger shift toward electric vehicles and sustainable infrastructure.